Electric bikes are .I said what I said.If you haven’t joined the pedal-assist party, it’s worth checking out.Contrary to much of the Facebook group debate, electric mountain bikes still offer plenty of fitness and are a lot of fun.The only difference is that you can ride more miles with more smiles in the same amount of time as a driverless bike, with less risk of your heart exploding.Read: The effort you put in depends on you and the power output you choose.If you use moderate output throughout the ride, your heart rate will likely be consistent, you will have less oxygen rest, and still build your muscles.If your power output is at the lowest setting, your muscles will have to work harder and your heart rate will increase.
When you decide to jump on the automotive bandwagon, there are a few things to consider in terms of handling and adaptability.First and foremost, before riding an e-bike, you must master bike handling skills.Many skills can be transformed, but as the eMTB weight increases, the timing of the skills and the skills themselves require a different type of strength and some finesse to make the ride more enjoyable.Cross-training your muscles is a great first step.For those of you who are curious about eMTB or have made the leap, here are some tips to prepare your body and mind for the added weight, speed and power of an electric-assist mountain bike.
Climbing on an e-MTB is generally easier than on a driverless bike due to the assistance of the motor.Weight is not a consideration for going uphill.Smooth, sustained climbs can be solved using almost all modes on the e-bike.For example, a fire road of often boring and arduous “necessary evil” climbs can be significantly accelerated by switching to “Accelerate” or “Ridiculous” mode (*mode names vary by bike brand).If there are no big obstacles, you’ll probably stay seated on the steepest climbs.Traction comes from a consistent pedal cadence and a balanced body on the bike relative to the terrain.
For example, if the road is steeper, you will need to move your body into a seated, crouched position; your hips are leaning forward on the seat, your chest is lowered toward the handlebars, your arms are in a “W” shape, and your elbows are close to your sides .As the fundamental laws of physics suggest, every movement has a reaction, and on an electric-assist bike, that reaction often makes you feel like you’re being thrown backwards when the motor is tipped forward.In fact, in some cases, you may find yourself “persisting”.If you’re in top assist mode, a slight body position adjustment will do the trick.Setting the bike to highest assist mode is an option, but not required.If your goal is to increase your cardiovascular work, then setting the power mode to minimum or medium assist mode will allow you to control your effort and reward: you’ll also save battery life.
Not all climbing is created equal.Loose, rough uphill sections or more technical sections can make the weight more noticeable and require the rider to understand the power modes available and how the power output will translate into traction or lack thereof.Consider this situation: you’re climbing a moderately rocky single or dual track in Eco or Trail mode (easiest to moderate assist) and so far so good.Then, you’ll notice a huge pile of steep dusty rocks ahead.There is a discernible “line” in the features, but it’s not easy.
Your first instinct might be to increase maximum power, because more speed equals more power, and you can push up, right?Incorrect.You enter the function in full assist mode and stand on the pedals, what happens next?You may succeed, but you may be either too far forward or too backward and you will stall or fall.Not that you can’t make up for these types of obstacles in high assist mode, it may not be the most successful or efficient.
When it comes to technical obstacles, body position and power output are paramount.If the power output is high and you are standing on the pedals, your center of gravity must be centered in order to keep your weight on both tires.Your legs are already powerful on standing climbs, so you’re effectively creating double the power of your body and your bike.Most motors engage with the slightest pedal pressure at all functions of the mode setting.If your body is not properly balanced, this can result in too much power to choose to maintain traction along your intended line.To overcome technical obstacles, it may be beneficial to lower the power output and rely on your legs and bike handling skills to assist climbing.You may find that even in that standing position you lean less forward than a normal bike.Remember, the motor is there to help you, not push you.
When riding an e-bike uphill, you’ll find that as soon as you press the pedals, the bike jerks forward.If you don’t have a firm grip on the handlebars and lean forward slightly, you’re likely to back up as the bike moves forward.The plank is a full-body exercise, but it’s especially helpful in building stability in the erector spinae, abs, and obliques, as well as the upper back, lats, and glutes.The core is an important part of adjusting the body position of the bike, and back strength is great for pulling.
To do a plank tow, you must first find a kettlebell, weight, sandbag, or something that can be dragged across the floor.Begin facing the ground in High Plank Pose: hands and wrists directly below shoulders, body in a straight line, hips level, core tight (pulling navel toward spine), legs and hips engaged (curved).This is your starting position.Place your weight on the left side of your body in line with your chest.Holding the perfect plank, reach your right hand under your body, grab the weight, and drag it to the outside of your body to the right.Repeat the same motion with your left arm, dragging from right to left.Complete 16 drags in sets of 3-4.
The dive bomber is also a full-body exercise that specifically targets the core, chest, and shoulders.To perform a dive bomber, start with a plank and push back into the modified downward dog position.With your body facing the floor, move your abs toward your thighs, raise your hips, straighten your legs and arms, and press your armpits toward the floor.You should look like a human tent.Make sure your feet are wider than hip-width apart and your hands are slightly wider than shoulder-width apart to help with balance.This is your starting position.Slowly bend your elbows and lower your forehead to the floor between your hands.Try to keep your tent in place for as long as possible.Continue lowering your forehead toward the ground, then “scoop” your body over your hands, starting with your forehead, nose, chin, neckline, chest, and finally your belly.You should now be in a modified cobra pose with your body hovering above the ground, arms straight under your shoulders, chin raised and looking at the ceiling.You can reverse this movement with your hands, but it is very difficult.Instead, move your body back to the plank and back to the modified downward dog.Repeat the action 10-12 times for a total of 3-4 sets.
Riding an electric bike is more difficult than a regular bike due to the extra weight.Electric mountain bikes require extra strength and stamina to descend, especially on thick, rocky, rooty and unpredictable terrain.Unlike going uphill, you don’t usually use pedal assist when going downhill, unless of course you’re pedaling and going under 20 mph.The full-size eMTB hovers in the 45-55 lb range, and as a lighter rider I really feel like it’s going downhill.
As with regular bikes, it’s important to keep your feet “heavy” on the pedals when you encounter obstacles on the road.Your body position should be balanced and stable in the “attack” or “ready” position as you move the bike forward/backward and side to side.Leg and core strength is great for maintaining a balanced position as the bike moves under you.Back and shoulder strength are important for controlling the weight of the bike as it bounces off obstacles, especially on rapidly changing terrain and at high speeds.
Jumping eMTB is also a bit difficult.Generally speaking, it’s hard to jump on a heavy bike without the throttle.They have a little lag time and are more sluggish on the lips.If you’re on the road, it might not feel like this because the weight of the bike pushes you to jump.In downhill parks or jump parks, it is necessary to use the pump more than on a normal bike in order to get proper bounce on jumps.This requires total body strength, more specifically hip and leg strength.
A lunge is a one-sided movement; a single-leg exercise that activates your stabilizing muscles to develop balance, coordination, and stability.Exercising one leg at a time can cause your body to be less stable, which forces your spine and core to work harder to maintain balance.When you descend on the bike, you have a supporting leg.Some people can use either leg as a support leg, although many have the front foot dominant.Lunges help balance the strength of your legs, so you can alternate your front feet.Static lunges target your glutes, quads, and hamstrings as you put most of your weight on your front legs and use your back legs to balance, stabilize, and support your entire body.
To perform a stationary lunge, start in a standing position and take a moderate step forward.Move your hips down toward the floor.Your front legs should be at a 90° angle with your ankles just below your knees.If not, adjust it.Your back legs should be slightly bent, toes bent, and knees hovering above the floor.It is important to maintain an upright position here, with the head roughly aligned with the hips.This is your starting position.From this position, press the front heel until the front leg is straight or slightly bent.Even in the top position, your back legs stay flexed and your toes can flex.Repeat this, sinking into lunges, doing 12-15 reps on each leg for 3-4 sets.
Ribbon pulls use shoulder blade contractions to activate muscles throughout the upper back, including the rhomboids, traps, and rear deltoid.They are useful for developing shoulder and mid-back strength, both important when charging heavy electric bikes downhill.Shoulder strength and stability provide support for the “ready” or “attack” position and are necessary to maintain postural balance.Mid-back strength helps move the bike forward and backward without losing form or control.
To perform a band pull, you must first acquire a band.Any type of simple resistance band will do.Roll your shoulders down and back, lift your head, and keep your chest out.Extend your arms in front of your body and align with your shoulders.Grab the straps and adjust the resistance so that there is a little tension between your hands.This is your starting position.Start by thinking about your back and squeezing your shoulder blades together, then spread your hands and straps out to your sides (still aligned with your shoulders) into a “T” position.If you can’t pull the straps apart with the straight arm, adjust the starting position to start with a smaller amount of slack.Reverse the movement, move your hands back to the front, and repeat 10-12 times for 3-4 sets.
These quick technical and fitness tips will help you understand the many handling nuances to consider when riding an eMTB.Even if you don’t consider riding on the “dark side”, these exercises will make you strong on regular riding.Plan to make cross-training a part of your habit throughout the year, and visit Singletracks’ YouTube channel for more training tips.
Great article!I agree with most of the stuff here, except the DH is harder on the ebike part.From the physical part, yes, it takes more power to handle these beasts, but heavier bikes (often with big DH casing tires) are more planted and have less deflection.E-bikes aren’t great on pedal DH, but on steep/loose/rough DH trails I actually prefer my 52 lb levo because it quiets everything down and is usually better than my 30 lb Stumpy is easier to implement super gnar.I only train e-bikes with more e-bikes, but now I will add reading your article